Living and working in Zurich

A certain guide book on Switzerland claims that there is little to detain a visitor in Zurich. I could not disagree more

If you like cobbled streets and good shops, have an interest in culture and enjoy lakes and mountain scenery, there is little that would make you want to leave.

As long as you are well off, that is. Although Zurich was the centre of the 16th century religious Reformation and its skyline is still dominated by two or three great churches, it offers little in the way of Christian charity. Zurich is one of the wealthiest cantons, or states, in Switzerland - and although the city genuinely welcomes all visitors, it prefers those of its own kind.

Financial Centre

Switzerland is the world capital of private banking for wealthy individuals. Although the country has three other financial centres - Geneva, Basle and Lugano - Zurich is the main focus, as it is the headquarters of the two biggest Swiss banks - UBS and Credit Suisse which globally employ 151,000 people between them.

Together with the Swiss National Bank, they cluster around Bahnhofstrasse , Zurich`s busiest shopping street. The city is also home to the huge insurance company Swiss Re, the biggest Swiss supermarket chain, Migros and a clutch of big electrical and engineering companies.

Housing

Accommodation is expensive. It is easy to pay 2,900CHF (€1,970) per month for a small two-bedroom apartment in Zurichberg, in the old town.

Restrictive laws govern the purchase of property by foreigners all over Switzerland and in Zurich buying is almost impossible. Some neighbouring areas may allow non-residents to buy an apartment, but if you are on a short-term secondment do not be tempted to do so, thinking it will pay off in the long run.

Under Swiss law, you are forbidden to sell your property within five years of purchase and because prices are consistently high, you are unlikely to make much profit.

If your company is paying for your flat, try to find something overlooking Lake Zurich near the Limmat Quai,, close to Niederdorf, in the heart of the city`s beautiful old town. Or, for the young and trendy, there is no cooler place to live than the Industrial Quarter on the city`s western side.

Schiffbau Platz, and Burkli Platz, traditionally the boat-building area, are booming, with new theatres, clubs and cultural centres opening all the time.

A word of warning before you move into a flat - take care you understand the house rules. One foreigner, who lived in Zurich for two years, says the only word of German he remembers from his stay is &quotverboten&quot (forbidden).

The Swiss are clean-living people who like their peace and quiet and many apartment blocks, especially the posher ones, outlaw showering or bathing between 10 pm and 7am, loud music and DIY work on Sundays, and flushing of the lavatory during the night. If you break the rules, do not be surprised to find the police on your doorstep.

Lifestyle and culture

As a city driven by money, Zurich expects employees to put in a hard day's work. In the big financial institutions it is not uncommon for staff to start at 7a.m. and leave at 8p.m. But in most businesses employees claim the right to their hour-and-a-half`s lunch break, so forget trying to arrange business meetings between midday and 2pm.

Although the Swiss are not renowned for their cuisine, there is a glut of good restaurants in Zurich. Zeughauskeller on the Bahnhofstrasse serves international cuisine at reasonable prices and prints its menu in eight languages. Otherwise, the best restaurants huddle in Niederdorf in the old town - the Zurich speciality is Geschnetzeltes Kalbsfleisch (veal in a cream sauce) with traditional rosti.

Try to persuade a boss to take you to Kronenhalle on Ramistrasse where you can pretend to be one of the artistic elite as you eat surrounded by original works by Marc Chagall. Or if you prefer, join the other shame-faced financial workers who can be seen daily in the much cheaper Manora - the buffet restaurant of the department store Manor (they tend to go alone and hide their faces in a newspaper).

Since Zwingli began his religious teachings at the beginning of the 16th century, Zurich has always had a reputation as an intellectual and cultural centre. A day off work might tempt you to check out its excellent museums (try the Kunsthaus in Heimplatz among the fine art and antique dealers), theatres or the acclaimed Opera House.

If you want to shop big time, the ubiquitous fur, gold, and designer clothes shops will be happy to strip you of your cash. In summer, when temperatures average around 23 degrees C, there is nothing better than a swim in Lake Zurich. In winter, a swim is best avoided as temperatures at best hover around zero.

The number of nightclubs has doubled over the past 5 years. The long-established Kaufleuten is respectable, but there are plenty of striptease clubs and cabarets in the Langstrasse, the city`s red light district. Those who have long gone off clubbing but still feel that they ought to be going can enjoy an evening at Adagio, which offers &quotquieter music for the 30 plus age group&quot.

Drawbacks

Apart from its high living cost, it is difficult to criticise Zurich. Like the rest of Switzerland it has a very low crime rate, especially since it has cleared up its heroin problem, which reached epidemic proportions in the late 1980s.

The town used to be notorious for &quotNeedle Park&quot by the National Museum, where hundreds of junkies shot up day and night. But a controversial &quotheroin on prescription&quot programme and a series of tolerated injection rooms across the city have almost ended the open drug scene.

If you appreciate efficient public transport, then Zurich is heaven - 95% of all trains coming into Zurich are bang on time and the trams are cheap.

Only motorists are ill-served by Zurich. The city actively discourages cars by providing a minimal amount of car parks. I have witnessed motorists in tears as they drive round the block for the fiftieth time looking for a space. You could of course take a taxi, but they are very expensive.

The average tax rate is around 15% for anyone earning around 100,000 CHF a year and around 24% for anyone earning 200,000CHF. If you answer the question &quotWhich religion are you?&quot on the work permit form, you may get clobbered for church tax. So it might be wise to leave it blank.